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Baja Summer Trip - Valle de Guadalupe Wine Country

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor f glass and barrells

It's hard to believe Valle de Guadalupe, about 14 miles north of Ensenada, is within driving distance of Los Angeles. I am more than happy with Napa Valley, Sonoma and the Central Coast. So now we go to touch upon the traditions and products of Baja Wine Country.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor grounds a road to winery

Our first official winery visit was Mogor Badan. The key varieties were Chasselas (based on a Swiss style), Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and  Merlot.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor grounds

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor building a

The Badan family produces small batches of wine with full respect to the land and environment. Owner Natalia Badan greeted our group before we toured the facilities and grounds, visited the cave and enjoyed a tasting.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor building b

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor building c
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor tasting b

We tried the locally produced olive oil as well.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor tasting chasselas bordeux blend a

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor b roof

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor building d

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor d

Once bottled, wines would be stored in a stone cave on the property. You can see them lined up against the back wall.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor e

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Mogor Badan dog

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor grounds tree

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Mogor Badan roosters

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Mogor Badan geese

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Mogor Badan lamb a

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Mogor Badan lamb b

We were encouraged to let the wine breath. Some of us sat under a large shade tree and also wandered the grounds to find the animals. The lambs were definitely not in a talkative mood.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Cavas del Mogor grounds bamboo

Another winery we visited is Las Nubes.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds g

The Las Nubes, or "The Clouds", winery was founded about 5 years ago by Victor Segura. The views of the valley and modern aesthetic as well as Segura's passion for the wine really shone through.

He encouraged questions and lit up when I asked a series of them.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds a

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds b

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds c

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds d

The building with thick stone walls reflects and blends in with the land from which it was built. Water gets collected and stored in a reservoir and used throught the year to farm the grapes. Part of the vineyards are used for experimental wines/grapes.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes house in vineyard

This house with radiating grape vines growing on the trellis was not part of the Las Nubes property, but added beauty to the landscape.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes tasting a

Some of the wines are named after clouds, such as Nimbus and Cumulus. We tried Cumulus, whose earthy qualites come from Carignan, Grenache and Tempranillo grapes. We also tasted a white and a Rosé called Jaak, containing zinfandel grapes among its blend.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes tasting b lettuce honeydew cheese

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes tasting b

Despite a hearty breakfast the group really enjoyed the appetizers, such as this lettuce wrap containing honeydew melon and local cheese. It was an unexpected but refreshing combination. I also can rarely resist olives, and the olive cheese really tasted unique.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds e

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes grounds f

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes tasting wine room a

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes tasting wine room b

The grapes are produced onsite. They have a wine club and have begun selling their wine in San Diego, planning to expand even more in the future.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Las Nubes barrels a

t's amazing how one feels like they really got away without getting too far in distance. Breathing the fresh air of this Mediterranean micro-climate, the wineries, buying olive oil and jam from the roadside, finding quaint bed and breakfasts as well as luxurious hotels and inventive Baja Med cuisine, it takes your mind and palate off day to day life.


Baja Summer Trip - Tasting Dinner at Manzanilla

Our "fancy" sit down dinner during the Baja weekend was at Chef Benito Molina’s restaurant Manzanilla in Ensenada. Chef Pablo Diaz was led our inspiring chef's tasting meal.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla bar

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla a

We really enjoyed the eclectic decor and the grounds. The building contains several rooms and patios, giving a wonderful indoor/outdoor vibe.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla grounds a courtyard
Pink building is their immaculate kitchen - I peeked through the large window
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla bar entrance

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla chandelier

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla paintings Perrier Warhol bottle
artwork and Andy Warhol label Perrier bottle
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla paintings
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla dining room
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla Chef Pablo Diaz
Chef Pablo Diaz
Some of us were quite fascinated with the modern woven metal table mats and serving baskets. Gorgeous. I would buy these in a heartbeat if we had time to seek them out.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla table setting metal placemats

And then came the luxurious, satisfying meal. I did not take notes during the meal, as with the other tasting meal because between photography and eating, I opted to enjoy the experience more. But I will fill in the captions in the future with more details.
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food a amuse bouche salad
amuse bouche and salad with fig tomato olive almond cheese
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food c bread
housemade bread, lime and salt plate for tequila
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food b oysters 4 ways
oysters 4 ways, served on rock salt
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food d  abalone 3 ways
abalone 3 ways - the one on left fried with fried parsley (wanted to eat it like a bowl of popcorn!)
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla Robert Bill
Bill Esparza
So about mid way through our delectable meal, we got a surprise visit from Mr. Baja himself, Bill Esparza! Since most of us had gone on a number of trips with him and got our Baja food education through him, it was a very pleasant surprise.

He was in very good spirits and spent a long time chatting with us, enjoying a meal and toasting us at the end of the meal.

It was wonderful to have most of Club Tengo Hambre together in one place as they all share a true passion for the region and it's clearly evident.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food e yellowtail and crab claw
yellowtail curdo and crab claw (removed from shell)
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food f quail

This innovative plating for the quail dish is based on a game involving a cat and bird. I loved the deconstructed dish, although some of the sauces and pickles overwhelmed the quail flavor. It was tempting to eat one square at a time but they taste better combined into a bite.

Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food g fish and eel
eel and yellowtail courses
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food i tortillas
who wouldn't love a purse full of warm, just made tortillas?
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food h ribeye salsa
tender ribeye steak with finishing salt and fresh salsa - loved this combination
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food j cheese course
cheese course with local cheese, of course
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food k dessert
my favorite dessert of the trip - very textural, creamy and fruity
Baja Ensenada Jul13_Manzanilla food l mezcal ant salt

Our last evening treat ended with a taste of Mezcal, with a sice of orange slices dipped in ant salt as the chaser. I try anything at least once and this is not my first taste of ant! It capped off our meal quite well.