Racion, Basque tapas with a California Twist
For a long time I've been wanting to write about Racion, a charming French/Spanish Basque region with California twist restaurant in Pasadena. As of the last couple of years Pasadena has really come into its own food scene.It used to be a given that I'd have to go out of area to enjoy interesting food. Although a fair share of chain and corporate style restaurants remain, there are definitely more choices for the foodie.
For starters, their sangria boasts a beautiful burgundy color and depth of flavor - fruity without being too sweet.
On my first visit with a larger group, they brought out these amuse bouches of fresh trout on thin toasty crisps.
The menu is divided into Pintxos (small snacks served on house made bread), Manos (bar snacks), Tenedor (tapas to share) and Cuchillo (raciones to share).
The setas consist of white bean puree spread on toast, topped with wild mushrooms cooked in sweet sherry and fresh herbs.
Calamar a la plancha, or grilled calamari on toast, also sits atop a bed of caramelized onions, which the menu describes as "melted", and lemon aioli.
On the same vein, the manos of salt cod fritters with lemon cream and herbs could go terribly wrong. But they came out crispy, light and fluffy on the inside and the lemon cream balanced the saltiness well.
One of the very enticing and popular dishes is the duck sausage-stuffed squid, brava sauce, squid ink sauce. It packs a lot of flavor and color.
While it's on the light side of the cuchillo menu, the coliflor ahumodo, or smoked cauliflower steak, ajo blanco, almonds, showed a satisfying way to enjoy vegetables as an entree.
The fideua negra did not impress some of my dining partners, but for a classic dish with a California twist, I enjoyed it. They do not claim perfect authenticity.
The buttery fideua was composed of Spanish pasta, mussels, poached quail egg and baby squid. Everything blended in so you could not see everything, but could certainly taste it.
Finally, another one of my favorites, the paella deconstruita of crispy prawns, lobster rice, bouillabaise really allowed tasting and enjoying all components separately. On the current menu, I believe it's called arroz con gambas.
I personally prefer risotto and biriyani over paella as far as rice dishes go. This light version with plenty of caramelized, griddled rice brought out lovely brininess, crunch and broth. It streamlines the dish in a clever way.
These dishes illustrate the style and some highlights from Chef Teresa MontaƱo's menu of several months to possibly a year ago. The menu does change often and may not include all these dishes, but there are some mainstays. The lunch menu pares things down to tapas mainly and the dinner menu also offers cheese, charcuterie, desserts and other items not covered here.
Overall, Racion, at the spot of the former Tre Venezie Trattoria, a very popular Italian restaurant, stands as a solid meal choice in Old Town Pasadena.
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