An Enchanting Modern Kaiseki Tasting Dinner at n/naka
It's been a longtime dream of mine to enjoy a formal meal in Tokyo, or actually anywhere in Japan. Unfortunately the last time I've been there was with my parents when I was 3 years old. Needless to say I don't remember the food.This past December, an incredible opportunity presented itself to utilize some of the etiquette I learned and wrote about in my Japanese kaiseki etiquette workshop post at an exquisite kaiseki experience at n/naka, the only dedicated kaiseki restaurant in L.A.
The name is an abbreviation of Chef Niki Nakayama's name.
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Reservations are mandatory, and after stepping in I realized they get fully prepared to give you the best personal experience, neglecting no details in the thoughtful service and flow of the meal.
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| Yuzu Sake, Yuzu Omoi, Yamamoto, Japan |
General Manager and Sommelier Jeffery Stivers suggests appropriate drink pairings, or the diner may select a course by course pairing option. He also speaks Japanese and answers most any question about the courses and ingredients. Needless to say, he exhibited perfect etiquette, as we learned in our kaiseki etiquette workshop.
He described this yuzu infused sake as a "Japanese margarita" and I really appreciated how clear that description was and how approachable his explanations were for someone who doesn't know much about sake. This refreshing drink was a big hit with the whole table.
Having said it's a splurge, I was delighted that the tasting meal contained delicacies that sometimes count as supplemental extras in many tasting meals - caviar, lobster, uni, abalone, Wagyu beef, exquisite quality sushi and sashimi (Otoro), prized Nameko mushrooms and of course the liberal use of Italian white truffles.
The exquisite vegetables served come from their own organic gardens.Many of the vegetables were the finest example of their kind, the food highlighted in its natural and unique forms. The vegetarian tasting menu delivers fried mochi cutlet, vegetable sushi and other options which are anything but boring.
The n/naka site listed the key winter 2012 ingredients, including mushrooms (including the truffles), persimmons, purple yams, Brussels sprouts - all at their peak of the season. These ingredients were incorporated beautifully into the courses.
From the first bite of an utterly perfect oyster course to the last sip of tea, every single sense was engaged. The heady scent of Italian white truffles permeated the dining room, intoxicating me during most of the evening. The sight (plating), feel (textures) and sizzles in the quiet dining room pleased me in addition to the sublime flavors of each course.
A fellow diner told me he'd look over to me when they set down each course in front of me because I'd smile from ear to ear and look so excited. I was feeling it. My excitement reached levels of giddiness when they laid the truffle dome and shaver right next to me!
From the first bite of an utterly perfect oyster course to the last sip of tea, every single sense was engaged. The heady scent of Italian white truffles permeated the dining room, intoxicating me during most of the evening. The sight (plating), feel (textures) and sizzles in the quiet dining room pleased me in addition to the sublime flavors of each course.
A fellow diner told me he'd look over to me when they set down each course in front of me because I'd smile from ear to ear and look so excited. I was feeling it. My excitement reached levels of giddiness when they laid the truffle dome and shaver right next to me!
My intention was to write a series of posts about this epic meal. However, as their stated philosophy says on the website, the whole of the meal is more important than the sum of its parts.
The experience reminded me in some ways of the beautiful flow of another of my favorite meals at the Providence chef's table, on this post.
Although it will be long, I'd like to attempt to mimic the harmonious flow of the meal.
In addition to my personal experience, what impressed me was the fact that nobody has the same experience twice at n/naka. For our table alone we enjoyed 3 different menus. Even those having the same menu or duplicate courses had plating variations. They also kept the 9 course and 13 course meals at the same pace so we could all stay on track.
They do not begin the service until all members of the party are present, which is necessary for the kitchen's timing as well as conducting the symphony of this meal. The logistical success alone, even leaving the food, really impressed me since I have some operational background in my career. I appreciated how intricate service was presented.
I'd like to sprinkle in some photos of other diner's courses. I didn't have much focus on everything, but certain ingredients and presentations definitely caught my eye. I photographed a few beautiful plates from across the table, in order to not disrupt the flow of the other diners' meals.
Following is the menu describing all components, with key elements highlighted in bold. A couple of the other menus' dishes follow as well.
The experience reminded me in some ways of the beautiful flow of another of my favorite meals at the Providence chef's table, on this post.
Although it will be long, I'd like to attempt to mimic the harmonious flow of the meal.
They do not begin the service until all members of the party are present, which is necessary for the kitchen's timing as well as conducting the symphony of this meal. The logistical success alone, even leaving the food, really impressed me since I have some operational background in my career. I appreciated how intricate service was presented.
I'd like to sprinkle in some photos of other diner's courses. I didn't have much focus on everything, but certain ingredients and presentations definitely caught my eye. I photographed a few beautiful plates from across the table, in order to not disrupt the flow of the other diners' meals.
Following is the menu describing all components, with key elements highlighted in bold. A couple of the other menus' dishes follow as well.
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n/naka Modern Kaiseki Menu - 12/14/12
1. Saki Zuke (A pairing of something common and something unique)
wrapped in a nest of crispy Maui onions
topped with fresh uni from Santa Barbara
a leaf of cress and a violet flower from Chef Niki’s gardens
sitting on a sauce of a spicy russet potato Dashi
and a gelee of Sanbaizu (a combination of Mirin and Dashi)
2. Zensai (Main seasonal ingredient presented as an appetizer)
served alongside a tempura of fresh Maitake mushroom
along with a cream of Maitake mushroom
and a sweep of a cream of purple yam
along with the tail of Maine lobster
with a sweep of soy reduction
A Norwegian smoked salmon
that is wrapped around bruleed Black Mission Fig
cream cheese, asparagus, chives
served with a Ponzu reduction
Unagi Nameko Oroshi - roasted unagi (freshwater eel)
with Nameko mushrooms from Japan
and finely grated vinegared daikon radish
Other menu plates for this course:
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| diver scallop, pompano, eel, smoked salmon |
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| butter fish |
mixed with a touch of white scallions
and topped with caviar of American white sturgeon
uni butter, a drop of soy reduction
fresh chive and Kombu Dashi
Other menu plates for this course:
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| Hokkaido Diver Scallops with Ponzu squeeze tube |
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| giant clam cucumber daikon yuzu zest Ponzu pansy petals |
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| Roasted Bull's Blood Beets, Nasu (Japanese eggplant), cherry tomatoes, parmesan, Ponzu hazelnut vinaigrette |
and shiitake mushroom and Kabu (Japanese turnip) and vegetables
in a broth of shiitake, vegetables and dashi
topped with the zest of fresh yuzu
5. Otsukuri (Modern Sashimi)
Live hirame (halibut) from Jeju, Korea
Toro of hamachi (Yellowtail tuna)
Shima Aji (Striped Jack)
Seared toro of baby big-eyed tuna
served with freshly grated wasabi
Ponzu and Niki’s special soy sauce
The menu which we were sent via email after the dinner, makes it difficult for me to identify the components to the photos. My sparse notes indicated live hotate (scallop), Amberjack, trout. The toro was seared, the first time I've tasted that preparation.
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| Cucumber cone - from Niki's garden |
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| sashimi inside Celebrity Apple |
Other menu plates for this course:
6. Mushmono (Steamed dish)
with shiitake mushrooms
fresh uni from Santa Barbara
topped with a truffle Dashi
and with shaved Italian truffles
Other menu plates for this course:
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| Kani Kouramushi - Snow Crab meat, truffled crab Dashi |
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| Organic Jidori chicken egg, dashi, shaved white Italian truffles |
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| head of Snow Crab |
and then put over a ragu of Russet potato
Brussels sprouts and Shimeji mushrooms
and fresh lemon
I appreciated this creative combination, and eating the clams from the shell. However, this is the first time I've tried cooked razor clams and I slightly prefer sashimi, tartar or ceviche - a raw preparation for razor clams.
Other menu plates for this course:
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| tempura of persimmon and Butterfish among other tastes |
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| cauliflower tempura sweet peppers scallions sweet and sour Dashi |
pickled cod roe
shaved Italian summer truffles
garlic, soy
and topped with daikon radish sprouts
This was my favorite course, and also that of one of our servers. A pasta dish being our favorite among such luxurious ingredients speaks to the way the seemingly simple dishes spoke volumes.
Of course this already delicious dish was further enhanced by the irresistible shaved truffles. The vegetarian menu swapped the roe and abalone for daikon radish sprouts, garlic and soy sauce and kept the shaved truffles.
9. Niku (Meat Course)
along with a sautéed Shishito pepper
with a sauce of garlic, ginger, sesame Tare
Other menu plates for this course:
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| Angus ribeye steak on a magnolia leaf scallions sweet red miso sauce |
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| Masuzaka Wagyu ribeye steak pan-seared Okinawan finishing salt cracked pepper Russet and purple carrot mashed |
with thinly sliced baby cucumber
and a Golden Sunset cherry tomato, both from Niki’s garden
11. Shokuji One & Two (Rice dish – Sushi)
O-toro of big-eyed tuna
Amaebi (Sweet shrimp)
Fresh Uni (Sea urchin)
12. Soba Noodles
When I lived and worked in the Westside I remember eating soba (buckwheat noodles) and udon at Taiko Japanese Restaurant, where I found out Chef Niki was the chef at some point.
The noodles and broth were simply perfect and I greatly enjoyed the added crunch of the tempura bits.
13. Mizumono (Seasonal Dessert)
topped with an ice cream of French vanilla bean
and organic fruit of raspberry and grape
Crème Brulee of black sesame seed
Hojita tea
Other menu plates for this course:
In both the chawanmushi dish and this one I enjoyed eating and drinking out of earthenware, with a wooden spoon. It made these knockout dishes taste even better.
Although the plating styles contained subtle variations, I liked that the whole table of 8 had dessert together and enjoyed the same components. It ended the experience in a unified manner.
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| G.M., Sommelier Jeffrey Stivers & Chef Niki Nakayama |
Chef Niki graciously greeted us at the end of the meal and spent some time chatting with us and taking group photos.
Overall, that evening truly transported me in many ways. If felt like a mini-vacation. I would enjoy nothing more than returning for another sensory journey with each new season.
